FEEDING
feeding is rather simple for this species. that is, if you know where to start.
as a regular diet, my pygmies enjoy a schmorgesboard of edibles:
roach nymphs
lawn plankton ( during the summer months, and from pesticide free areas)
pin head crickets ( this becomes a staple as the winter months approach)
Drosophila melanogaster ( fruit fly species)
small moths
for hatchling and juvenile pygmy chameleon's, fruit flies have been the staple diet for the first 3 months of life. i had tried to integrate pin head crickets into the diet, to no avail. at that age, the pygmy chameleons had developed a fear of the crickets, which would often result in a refusal to eat whenever they were in or around the cage.
adults and juvenile's would gladly accept an offer of pin head's. eagerly hunting them down.
( this picture shows an adult pygmy on the hunt for crickets.)
the average adult pygmy chameleon will consume anywhere from 1-4 pin head crickets (or food item of your choice) every other feeding during the spring and summer months, and less during the winter months.
a juvenile pygmy chameleon will consume SEVERAL small meals a day. i usually permit 1-2 pin head crickets and 4-5 wingless fruitflies per animal.
hatchling's need constant sustenance. feeding a clutch of hatchling's at least 3 times daily is recommended. with the diet consisting of wingless fruit flies only.
I usually have 2-3 fruit fly cultures going at one time. because there is a risk of one or more cultures crashing at any given time, i am always prepared.
as for crickets. maintaining enough for a colony of hungry pygmy chameleons can be difficult. currently, i am housing approximately 100-150 crickets in a 20 gallon long glass aquarium.
it is set up as followed:
20 gallon fish aquarium
two heating pads ( located on the back and side of tank, close together.)
1 (25 watt) infrared heat lamp resting on mesh screen top
egg crate's
paper towel and toilet paper rolls
3 sponges ( unsoaped) soaked in water
2 feeding stations (dishes)
and small amount of bunched newspaper.
this setup is cleaned out at least once weekly. this helps to prevent any crickets from feeding off of dead one's that accumulate before they are distributed out.
the cricket's diet is rather rich in protein and fiber. a simple mixture would consist of :
granola
high quality fish flakes
bran cereal
fruits and veggies
high protein dog or cat kibble
** NOTE:**
the Cricket Drink or Cricket Diet prepackaged meals are for 24 hour gut loading only. they are far to rich in calcium to maintain a colony of crickets for more than 2-3 days.
it is important to keep the temperature of the cricket cage above 65 F degrees. any lower and you will find that the majority of the colony will die within hours. my tank is set at a comfortable 70 F degrees.
it is also important to dust your pygmies food items with a calcium supplement at least once weekly for adults and twice weekly for juveniles and hatchling's.
